Supporting the sides

Once the deck was lifted off the hull the sides wanted to sag a little. So I took my tape measure and took the inside measurements of the deck in several places. At the place I took the measurement I mark it on the hull. Then I took some 2x4's and ripped them in half long ways and cut them to match the width of the deck. Then I made some end caps and screwed them to the ends of the boards. Then at the marks on the hull I placed them over the hull. What this does is, it pulls the sides of the hull back in line as if the deck lid was back on the boat. Its very important to keep the hull as in shape as possible so when you glass things back in you don't end up making a twisted boat that doesn't ride very well.

Removing the deck lid

I took two 2x4's some rope, eye bolts and two come alongs and rigged the deck to be lifted off the hull. The deck lid is not that heavy so I used the main beam of my building to support my rigging. I used my 8 foot ladder so I could reach my come along and I slowly started cranking up the deck. I would alternate from back to front so I could lift it as evenly as I could, because remember I'M doing this boat all by myself. My helpers are only 5 and 3. I was very pleased when I was finished because my plan worked.

Ready to separate

Here are the pictures with the rub rail off. It is now ready to separate.

Removing the rubrail

Before I install the stringers I wanted to separate the deck from the hull. The reason is because, before I glass in the stringers I will be adding more glass to the bottom of the hull to beef up the hull. In 1968 they did not put a lot of glass in the boats. Also I will be vacuuming bagging 3/8" coosa board panels to the sides of the free wall of the boat. So I need the deck off to give me plenty of room to work. Plus I plan on working on the deck when I'M done with the hull. Having it off will make so much easier. In these pictures show the beginning of the removal of the rub rail. The rub rail was custom made out of teak and had a stainless steel band screwed to it for protection. Once the rub rail was off I had to remove the through bolts that clamped the deck to the hull. Then I took my razor knife to cut the silicon bead around the boat to free the deck lid from the hull. When it was completely cut I was ready to separate.

Bulkhead removal

Well winter is over and its back to work on the project. In these photos I removed the cabin bulk head and the rest of the floor. I'M prepping the boat so I can remove the stringers. The stringers will be completely replaced once I make up my mind on what material I want to use.

409cu.in 330 HP of BAD ASS

Here is another winter project. When I bought the boat the engine was a fresh new long block. Recently rebuilt by a machine shop in Hopewell Va. The engine is a 1972 Chevy 400 small block with 4 bolt main caps. The engine came out of an old school bus. The engine was bored 30 over and the crank is a brand new out the box steel crank. The heads are 350 heads that were drilled for the steam ports that are in the 400 block. It also has the original bow tie high rise intake manifold. It has the typical marine cam with a double roller timing gear set. So when I got the engine I bought and installed a new Holly 750 double pump 4 barrel manual choke carburetor. New manifolds and risers and a fresh water cooling system. New starter, wires, plugs, cap and rotor. New flywheel and fuel filter. When the shop built the engine they said it has at least 330hp maybe a tad more. I know when I had everything put together and started it up in my garage it sounded BAAD! In fact it sounded so bad my asshole neighbor called the police on me for disturbing the peace. I can't wait to put this motor in. With the hp and the weight of my boat and the out drive I have. This boat should do at least 60mph maybe 62mph. The out drive is a Volvo 290 DP. I wanted to add that when I took these pictures, the original carb was on it which had an electric choke. This engine replaces the original engine which was a Chevy 350 270hp. That's why you see the original carb cover with AQ271C.